"You aren’t going to out-Amazon Amazon"

Em vez de retalho físico pensemos em imprensa, pensemos em empresas stuck-in-the-middle

"As scarcity disappears across so many areas, as the pace of change accelerates, and as newly empowered customers flex their muscles, the definition of boring has changed, in many cases radically. The bar for good enough has been raised. Not only do customers today know when they could do far better, it’s increasingly easy for them to demand what they want. And they can find many new and innovative brands willing and ready to respond. Today, even very good often doesn’t make the sale.

...

Yet even if you have a product or service that is unique, highly customer relevant, and not the least bit boring, getting noticed and commanding attention is increasingly difficult.

In this age of digital disruption we are drowning in a tsunami of information and deluged by all manner of distractions. The exploding world of choice that the internet and smartphones offer has delivered great benefits, but it has also created a tremendous amount of clutter.

...

What it takes to get noticed, to command attention, to be remarkable enough that whatever product, service, or idea we are selling gets adopted and spread, requires us to boost today’s signal many times more than would have worked in the recent past. Anything else risks not getting heard or seen, much less acted on, in our ever-noisier world.

...

what so many get wrong is believing that merely being better gets the job done. Better is not always the same as good. Far too often what is touted as innovation is providing a slightly better version of mediocre. Slowing the rate of descent is, in some sense, progress, but without a major change in direction, eventually we still crash.

...

You aren’t going to out-Amazon Amazon. Maybe Walmart, Target, or a very short list of other well-resourced retailers can in certain instances.

...

Ask yourself: how can retailers with higher costs than Amazon possibly win a price war? How is offering free shipping or BOPIS going to counter Amazon’s dominance in product assortment and delivery convenience? Any strategy like that is based on a hope that Amazon will follow the same profit and investment calculations that “normal” retailers do. How do you know, even if some of these efforts manage to gain some traction, that Amazon won’t respond even more aggressively or find some other way to make your life miserable?

...

Matching Amazon on prices and/or delivery times may seem like a good move, until you actually have to bear the cost of doing it. You are starting a race to the bottom that you can’t possibly win.

So what can be done? For most retailers, particularly those that lack the resources and capabilities that the mega-brands have, the only decision is to double down on (or lean into) those improvements that make your brand more customer relevant, more unique and sustainable over the long term.

...

For retailers that still garner most of their sales from their physical stores, that means appreciating and nurturing the unique advantages of brick-and-mortar locations: personal service, compelling visual merchandising, unique products, well-curated assortments, social experiences, instant gratification, and the like. You can complement that in-store experience with a well-harmonized e-commerce offering. Mostly you can embrace the choice to be remarkable on retail elements that Amazon can’t match.”

Trechos retirados do capítulo 10 “An Especially Bad Time to Be Boring” do livro “Remarkable Retail”

"a company has to change its corporate mindset"

Enquanto lia o capítulo 9 “Defenders of the Status Quo” do livro “Remarkable Retail” só pensava em Portugal e na sua classe política:

"There is a simple psychology model often referred to as the “3 As,” which stands for awareness, acceptance, and action. This way of understanding the steps a person must go through to make lasting change can guide us to what needs to happen collectively when a retailer embarks on the journey from good enough to remarkable. Before it can follow individual steps, a company has to change its corporate mindset—and that can be the most difficult obstacle of all.

...

We may not like gravity. We may find it rather inconvenient at times. We might even think gravity is an outdated concept. It doesn’t matter. Gravity doesn’t care. Gravity always wins.

...

The sad irony is that while many a retail manager has been sacked for failing to meet a quarterly or annual sales or profit plan, plenty of leaders stay in power doing the same old things over and over again, treading water while a new tranche of customer and shareholder value is created by industry insurgents who either steal share from the defenders of the status quo or seize new opportunities that were there for the taking simply by redefining the way existing or emerging customer outcomes could be addressed.

...

his complete disregard for reality is obvious and pathetic.

...

It’s been said that hope is not a strategy. But this is what passes for an innovation program at many companies. Even if a company is not entrenched in defending the status quo, many are living a fantasy, spinning what amounts to a fairy tale of a growth strategy."

Excerto de: Steve Dennis. “Remarkable Retail”. Apple Books. 

Aguardemos os desenvolvimentos e as suas consequências

Um interessante artigo sobre a Inditex e o seu desempenho durante a quarentena em "Zara Owner Built a Post-Covid Retailer Before Coronavirus" em linha com o que ouvi ontem à noite num telejornal qualquer.

Uma informação que não consta deste artigo e que ouvi no tal telejornal foi sobre a intenção da empresa em futuramente fechar um certo número de lojas. Recordei de imediato o que tinha lido ontem, na minha caminhada matinal, no capítulo 8 "Optimizing to Extinction" do livro “Remarkable Retail”.

O capítulo é sobretudo sobre as empresas de retalho que estão mal, e esperam resolver o seu problema de uma má proposta de valor, ou uma má execução, fechando de uma penada uma série de lojas para cortar nos custos.

"For the better part of a decade, Wall Street has been pushing under-performing retailers to cut expenses and close stores.

...

[Moi ici: O trecho que se segue é notável!!!] Some analysts have even gone to great lengths to calculate the number of stores that a given retailer would need to close to return to an acceptable level of store productivity, making the faulty assumption that reducing the denominator has zero impact on the numerator. [Moi ici: Ficamos a pensar naqueles analistas que acham que realmente os humanos têm todos uma mama e um testículo]

...

[Moi ici: O autor compreende e defende que marcas que sobre-expandiram o número de lojas terão de encerrar algumas, mas] More useful for our purposes is how significant store closings impact the long-term viability of a brand. Unless a retailer significantly over expanded, closing large numbers of stores will make it materially less customer relevant. The company is effectively abandoning a trade area and “firing” the customers that live or work there. Unless a convenient alternative location is nearby, this business is almost always lost to local competition. Some retailers have counted on their website to pick up the volume they are losing by closing stores. This strategy rarely pans out. First, the reason the customers shopped in the store is, presumably, they like shopping in stores better than online. Unless the products being sold are truly unique, the shopper can usually find plenty of brick-and-mortar stores offering acceptable substitutes nearby.

...

stores play an important role in marketing by creating and reinforcing top-of-mind awareness, even for customers who rarely set foot in the store. Brick-and-mortar locations tend to play a disproportionate role in cost-effective customer acquisition. Pulling stores out of a market is often akin to withdrawing significant advertising dollars. Overall brand impact is reduced, particularly compared to direct competitors that have greater"

Só porque as vendas homólogas online cresceram 90% em Abril passado, a Inditex pensa fechar uma série de lojas. Aguardemos os desenvolvimentos e as suas consequências.

Para reflexão

O capítulo 6 “The Future Will Not Be Evenly Distributed” do livro “Remarkable Retail” tem um trecho que faz sorrir e descobre a careca a muitas startups:

"About ten years ago, I attended a conference where the opening speaker was Zappos’s CEO and founder, Tony Hsieh. As was typical for the time, he regaled the audience with tales of hyper-growth, amazing customer service, and an entrepreneurial culture that lived to deliver a wow experience. It was around the time Amazon plunked down over $1 billion to acquire the nascent shoe seller.
As I recall, the speaker who followed Hsieh deviated from his stated topic, starting out by telling us about his plans to open the best hotel in the world along New York City’s Central Park. The hotel would feature a dizzying array of restaurants, all helmed by celebrity chefs, and the largest hotel health club ever. Rooms would be the largest in the city, and all would have spectacular views of the park through floor-to-ceiling windows. Complimentary helicopter or limousine service would be available from all area airports. “But the best part,” he said, pausing for dramatic effect. “The best part is our prices will be 20 percent lower than the Four Seasons, the Mandarin Oriental, The Peninsula, or any other of the very top hotels in Manhattan.”
Having delivered his pitch, he asked, “So, how many of you would be interested in staying in this hotel?”
Most hands in the room shot up immediately.
“How many of you want to invest in this hotel?”
Not a single hand went up.
“That’s fascinating. Because I’m not sure that what I just described is fundamentally different than what you just heard about Zappos or any of these other brands offering out-of-this-world service and ridiculously low prices."

Para reflexão:

“It’s hard to imagine a scenario where a traditional retailer could or would recommend a strategy whereby it lowered its prices, dramatically increased its marketing spending, and added expensive extra features and benefits to deliver “incomparable value” and “ninja-like” customer service, with the promise to the board of directors of “Sure, we will lose hundreds of millions of dollars for the next several years, but trust me, within a decade—fifteen years tops—this is going to be truly phenomenal.” For legacy retailers that seems nuts. For “disruptors” it’s a key feature.”

"a laser-like focus on a particular customer segment"

O capítulo 5 - "The Amazon Effect" do livro “Remarkable Retail” de Steve Dennis procura desmistificar o que se diz sobre a Amazon e as mudanças no retalho físico.

"As stores close by the thousands, once-prosperous chains go bankrupt, and scores of malls are bulldozed or massively repurposed, it’s become common to lay the blame on the rise of e-commerce generally and on Amazon in particular.
...
First, as we have seen, some of the most disrupted sectors were in decline well before Amazon was a blip on the radar screen.
...
Second, absolutely nothing prevented any of these retailers that have lost share to online retailers from developing their own similar e-commerce capabilities. In fact, a brand with really great digital capabilities combined with kick-ass brick-and-mortar assets that are well integrated should have important advantages in competing with online-only players. That is one of the main arguments of this book.
...
Many major national brands have yielded little or no share to Amazon and other pure-play competition. That’s not to mention the many local, regional, and specialty stores that have a laser-like focus on a particular customer segment, [Moi ici: Uma condição crítica para o sucesso, a definição dos clientes-alvo] deliver superior customer service, and provide a unique product and/or service mix.

.
The real question for retailers is, do you let the shifts destroy you or do you turn them to your advantage?...[Moi ici: Tudo uma questão de mindset]
This is best shown by examining the difference between “buying” and “shopping. In this way of dissecting the retail world, “buying” is more task-driven or mission-focused. It’s mostly functional. The consumer already has a clear idea of what he or she wants and generally wants it quickly and at a decent price. Buying is more commodity-oriented and search typically plays a key role. Amazon—and e-commerce more broadly—does especially well here.
“Shopping,” on the other hand, is more nuanced and complex, typically involving more exploration and browsing. Generally speaking, browsing on Amazon can be a frustrating experience. When shopping, rather than looking for a specific item, the consumer may be seeking a more complete solution or inspiration and often requires some form of advice. Shopping also tends to be more emotional, with a greater emphasis on the full experience rather than merely checking an item off a to-do list. [Moi ici: Mais uma vez o paralelismo para os media. Com que é que a imprensa se safa, com os buyers ou com os shoppers?] The role of physical stores is dramatically more important in shopping than buying, and as a consequence Amazon and other sites that are dominantly or entirely e-commerce have a disproportionately lower share.

...
“Amazon is powerful, but it is not invincible. Yet it is not very likely that anyone reading this book will contribute to the company’s downfall. Nor are there many parts of Amazon’s core business where its vulnerabilities can be profitably exploited. But there are many aspects of retail where Amazon is not—and will not be—especially successful.
Amazon has incredible momentum, but it is not going to take over the vast majority of retail—at least not in anyone’s sensible planning horizon. In plenty of areas Amazon has a long way to go before it will ever gain meaningful market share.
Our job, therefore, is threefold. The first is to stop chasing Amazon like Ahab obsessively pursuing Moby Dick. [Moi ici: Uma forma interessante de chamar a atenção para a actuação ao estilo do Dick Dastardly] You won’t catch it and even if you do, before long you will likely get crushed or eaten alive. The second is to separate the myths from the reality. The third is to focus your strategy on the areas where Amazon is not, and will not be, an unbeatable competitor anytime soon.
.
“This is not to say that Amazon should not be a potential distribution partner. This doesn’t mean that many things that Amazon does well should not be studied and potentially made part of your organization’s capabilities. But it does mean accepting the fact that we are not going to beat Amazon at its own game."

Colapso do meio-termo e a polarização do mercado

O capítulo 4 - "The Collapse of the Middle" do livro “Remarkable Retail” de Steve Dennis foi uma revisão de temas que são tratados neste blogue quase desde o seu início.

"As we take a closer look, however, we start to see what I first explored in a 2011 blog post as the “death of the middle.” Then, a couple of years later, I began referring to this phenomenon as “retail’s great bifurcation” — a title later borrowed for an excellent Deloitte study, which I will discuss below."

Aqui no blogue a primeira vez que se escreveu sobre a morte do meio-termo - o stuck in the middle - e a polarização dos mercados foi em Abril e Maio de 2006 - Porque não podemos ser uma Arca de Noé! (II).

...
What we see, on the one hand, is that many retailers that are strongly focused on the value end of the spectrum—i.e., great prices, extensive merchandise assortments, and a highly convenient and efficient buying experience—are growing both sales and number of stores. At the other end of the spectrum, many brands that focus on offering unique products, more personalized service, and a more upscale and distinctive shopping experience are also gaining share and continuing to open more locations.
As the chart above illustrates, the problems in physical retail (and in troubled brands more broadly) are highly concentrated among those retailers trapped in what I call the boring, undifferentiated middle, or what Deloitte labels, somewhat charitably, “Balanced.”[Moi ici: O mesmo padrão por todo o lado, não é só no retalho físico, é em todos os sectores económicos ]
...
What Deloitte found was that high-income households have captured a disproportionate share of income growth in recent years. Indeed, the rich are getting richer, as the top 20 percent captured over 100 percent of income growth between 2007 and 2015.
...
For most Americans, however, the outcomes are quite different. They are downright depressing. For 80 percent of households, income growth has either declined or remained stagnant, while costs of non-discretionary expenses like healthcare, education, and other household essentials continue to increase, often markedly.
...
The implications for retail are significant. As both discretionary income and overall wealth have risen sharply for the affluent class, many are spending their gains on both products and services, often trading up to ever more expensive items. At the other end, for the other 80 percent who are getting squeezed harshly, total spending power has declined. As a result, their sensitivity to prices and stretching their dollars even further has greatly increased.
...
Department stores in particular have been swimming in a sea of sameness for decades. Now they are drowning.
The retailers that are struggling typically have both strategic and executional issues. From a business design standpoint they often sit in the middle of the price spectrum, offering neither great product value and convenience nor anything unique from a product, experience, or service standpoint. They sell fairly average “safe” products to the great masses of the population. A little bit of everything for everybody, nothing that special—or remarkable—for anybody. [Moi ici: A agonia de quem vende para o Normalistão quando o mundo está a ficar cheio de tribos. O nosso velho Estranhistão, ou Mongo]
...
These brands act like they are still in business. They think that some customers still really care whether they stay or they go.
I see dead brands. And they don’t even know they’re dead."[Moi ici: Recordo a metáfora do Rádio Clube Português ]

Quando o mundo muda (parte I)

"A crise regressou ao calçado?
...
A verdade é que, nos últimos 13 anos, fecharam, em Portugal, mais de 38 mil lojas de retalho, a maioria das quais (7217) do segmento têxtil e da moda. [Moi ici: Irrelevante para o calçado português. A quase totalidade do mesmo é exportado, não é para consumo nacional] Os dados são da Informa D&B e mostram que 37% dos encerramentos aconteceram nos últimos cinco anos. A nível europeu a situação é semelhante.
...
“É muito preocupante”, reconhece Luís Onofre, que admite uma aposta crescente no negócio online, que, no seu caso, cresceu 80% nos últimos anos. “Há três anos, a minha política comercial era a de abrir lojas lá fora, nos melhores locais, levasse o tempo que levasse. Hoje não sei. O online está a dar, é nisso que vou continuar a investir. Mas as regras do Google mudaram, e tudo se paga, o que me leva a questionar se a moda será rentável no futuro tal como a conhecemos”, admite.
...
Está a indústria portuguesa sobredimensionada para esta nova realidade, questionamos. “Não sei. Nós temos é que combater isso de outra forma. Pela sustentabilidade, criando mecanismos, por código de barras, por exemplo, que permitam que o cliente consiga saber de onde veio cada componente que integra o produto que vai comprar, para que possa tomar uma decisão informada. É nisso que estamos a trabalhar na Confederação Europeia do Calçado”, diz Luís Onofre, sublinhando que a sustentabilidade “não está, apenas, no ambiente, mas, também, mas condições de trabalho que se proporciona aos trabalhadores e nos salários que se lhes paga”. Razão porque, argumenta, “é preciso rever” a política europeia de importações da Ásia. [Moi ici: Estranho! Esta gente não conhece as fábricas chinesas em Itália? Ou os bangladeshis como prestadores de serviços em Portugal?]"

Quando o mundo muda é preciso mudar para acompanhar a mudança e tirar partido dela.

Continua.

Trechos retirados de "Consumo em quebra leva ao fecho de lojas e fábricas"

Acerca da evolução do retalho

"It has been a tough decade for brick-and-mortar retailers, and matters seem only to be getting worse.
.
Despite a strong consumer economy, physical retailers closed more than 9,000 stores in 2019 — more than the total in 2018, which surpassed the record of 2017.
...
Some people call what has happened to the shopping landscape “the retail apocalypse.” It is easy to chalk it up to the rise of e-commerce, which has thrived while physical stores struggle.
...
But this can be overstated.
...
Collectively, three major economic forces have had an even bigger impact on brick-and-mortar retail than the Internet has.
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In no particular order, here they are:
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• Big Box Stores: In the United States and elsewhere, we have changed where we shop — away from smaller stores like those in malls and toward stand-alone “Big Box” stores. ...

• Income Inequality: Rising income inequality has left less of the nation’s money in the hands of the middle class, and the traditional retail stores that cater to them have suffered. ...

• Services Instead of Things: With every passing decade, Americans have spent proportionately less of income on things and more on services. Stores, malls, and even the mightiest online merchants remain the great sellers of things."

Trechos retirados de "Never Mind the Internet. Here’s What’s Killing Malls."

O futuro do retalho

"Where we find ourselves today is at the end of the beginning of e-commerce. In 2019 a little more than $3 trillion dollars in global retail was transacted online and was largely comprised of the sorts of products that are relatively simple to transact — electronics, airline and event tickets, shoes, and a range of other commodity items. However, the outstanding opportunity is $27 trillion remaining in the global retail economy, including things that are fundamentally more complex purchases.
...
In the future, all but the most convenience-based retailers will begin to use their stores as media to acquire customers and their media platforms as stores to transact sales.
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Put another way, media is now a cost of sales and rent is now a cost of customer acquisition. Retailers that miss or ignore this shift will do so at their peril.
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Media is not merely becoming the store, it's becoming the ultimate store.
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Conversely, however, physical stores are going through a very different but corresponding evolution. Brick-and-mortar stores are no longer simply a channel for the distribution of products. They no longer act as the final point in the purchase funnel.
...
Physical stores are becoming a powerful media channel, and very often the first point of contact between brands and consumers. As consumers become increasingly technologically entrenched, they'll crave far more and better physical retail experiences. And so brick-and-mortar spaces will offer retailers and brands the opportunity to draw the consumer into the brand story, deliver a remarkable and immersive brand and product experience, and ultimately galvanize their relationship with consumers.
...
In essence, the unique selling process you create becomes as much of a product as the product itself." 

Trechos retirados de "The future of retail: What 2020 and beyond will bring to the industry"

Demografia e segunda-mão

Ontem ouvi grande parte deste podcast, "Adam Minter on Secondhand" e fiquei admirado com os milhões de dólares envolvidos no negócio dos materiais em segunda-mão. À medida que a onda demográfica avança cada vez mais pessoas optam por mudar para casas mais pequenas e desfazer-se de muitos dos seus bens. Algo semelhante ao que li sobre o que acontece no Japão aos bens dos idosos falecidos. Recordo "Dying Alone in Japan: The Industry Devoted to What’s Left Behind" que referi em "Negócio de futuro".

Entretanto, antes tinha lido "By 2023, the secondhand clothes market will double to $51 billion. Here’s why".

Também recordo:

• Compras em segunda-mão (Março de 2019)
• Estratégia, Economia Circular, Novos Modelos de Negócio (Dezembro de 2019)

E:

• E a demografia? (Junho de 2019)
• Demografia e clientes-alvo (Janeiro de 2020)

Talvez nesta Europa, ainda mais envelhecida que os Estados Unidos, e para onde exportamos tanto do nosso calçado, este factor também seja relevante para se juntar à lista:

• Comoditização da posição baseada na flexibilidade e rapidez;
• Deterioração do actual modelo de negócio baseado nas feiras;
• Envelhecimento dos antigos clientes-alvo.

O retorno dos independentes

“If we see our products as books and what we compete on price, we lose. If we see our product as an experience, of which books are one piece, then we can compete.”

"Raffaelli distills the resurgence of the indies down to three main points: Community, Curation, and Convening.
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Community: As longtime community stalwarts, bookstores have been at the vanguard of the “buy local” movement, pioneering events such as Small-Business Saturday, and making their customers feel virtuous about spending money in their own neighborhoods. “It’s almost like a social movement,” says Raffaelli, who says indie bookstores are “anchors of authenticity in an ever-increasing digital and disconnected world.” The notion goes beyond a bond with customers to include other important community actors, such as schools, chambers of commerce, and civic organizations, reinforcing the social fabric and engendering a strong sense of customer and community loyalty.
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Curation: Despite the increasing sophistication of online algorithms, online platforms have been unable to replicate the knowledge and passion of indie bookstore employees, says Raffaelli. “Many booksellers are voracious readers and serve as trusted guides who can point their customers to new genres or up-and-coming authors they might not have encountered,” he says. “Customers leave the store excited and then want to come back.” By contrast, he says, Amazon’s reputation as “the everything store” can sometimes work against it, overwhelming consumers with too many options and an impersonal experience.
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Convening: Indie bookstores are increasingly serving as points for convening, expanding beyond author events to host book groups, children’s story hours, birthday parties, music events, knitting circles, culinary demonstrations, and other events. Several stores Raffaelli visited reported staging over 500 events a year. “Bookstores have always been a place where people could convene and have a conversation about the issues of the day,” he says, adding that bookstore owners are increasingly seeing their competition not as Barnes & Noble, but as Netflix and other entertainment apps that tie people to their couches. “Retailers who succeed are able to create a unique experience that consumers see as time well-spent. [Moi ici: Nunca esqueço de Pine e a sua relaação entre experiência e "time weel spent"] Not only do such events get people into the store—the number one goal of every retailer—but events open the door for readers to connect with other bibliophiles, creating more demand for their products.
Ironically, in their efforts to build community, bookstores have increasingly embraced the online world as a tool to extend their reach. “Bookstores have become sophisticated at building a social media presence,” Raffaelli says. “Many owners have hired online specialists to extend the conversation outside the four walls of the bookstore itself.”

Interessante esta ferramenta de avaliação das lojas:

 Fontes:

• Lessons for Retailers from the Rebirth of Indie Bookstores
• Reinventing Retail: The Novel Resurgence of Independent Bookstores

O eterno retorno

A evolução do retalho é um tema recorrente neste blogue há vários anos.

Todos estamos cientes do crescimento das vendas online e do declinio das vendas no retalho físico. Escrevo isto e recordo imagens de lojas na antiga Nacional Nº 1 em São João da Madeira, estávamos em 2011 e as lojas tinham parado em 1988(?). Recordo também imagens no programa "País, País" na terça-feira de Carnaval de 2005, de lojas em Vila Real a protestar contra a abertura de um centro comercial. As imagens retratavam lojas paradas em 1973(?).

Ontem, sem procurar, vieram ter comigo os seguintes artigos:

• The Year Ahead: Neighbourhood Stores Return
• In 2020, retail is moving back to Main Street

"Going where people already are is ultimately better for brands, because it means that foot traffic is not entirely dependent on them. Their storefronts will exist in an ecosystem along with restaurants, workout studios, and cultural spots, and someone who makes a trip out to visit any one of these venues will pass by, and perhaps pop into, adjacent ones."

"Given that many people still like to touch, feel and try fashion items before they buy, the industry is well placed to benefit from this theme. We expect fashion retailers to ramp up their presence in neighbourhoods and new districts beyond traditional commercial zones, with stores that reflect the local community and focus on service and experience." 

O eterno retorno...

Estratégia, Economia Circular, Novos Modelos de Negócio

Três leituras de ontem, que ilustram alguns temas que costumam ser tratados aqui no blogue.

• "The Future of Fashion is Circular: Why the 2020s Will Be About Making New Clothes Out of Old Ones".

Ao ler este texto recordei as modistas da minha infância, recordei uma cultura em que os bens eram usados, reparados, remendados e passavam de irmão para irmão, e de primos para primos.

Mais um sintoma de que o modelo do século XX está a encolher e voltamos a práticas anteriores à industrialização, por causa de Mongo e por causa do ambiente.

• "The rise of Amazon has led to a split between thriving and struggling malls"

Centros comerciais que apostam nas experiências estão melhores do que nunca. 

Centros comerciais baseados no preço-baixo não têm hipótese de competir com o comércio online.

• "By 2023, the secondhand clothes market will double to $51 billion. Here’s why"

"Resale platforms like the RealReal, ThredUp, and Depop have made shopping for used clothing easier than ever—and consumers are buying in." 

O mundo a mudar

Onde estão os seus clientes a vender?

Eles podem gostar muito da sua fábrica, mas se eles estão a perder clientes ...

"Retailers vacated US shopping centres at the fastest pace in at least nine years in the second quarter as the relentless rise of online shopping and collapse of debt-laden chains begin to hit the commercial property market.
.
More than 7,400 store closures have been announced this year, with Sears, Victoria’s Secret and Charlotte Russe among a raft of household names to shut outlets in malls across the country.
...
“We’ve been the busiest we’ve ever been in our history,” said Scott Carpenter, head of retail liquidation at Great American Group.
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The 7,426 store closures announced this year, as tracked by Coresight, compare with little more than 3,000 openings. The closures are already about a quarter more than the 5,864 during all of last year.
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Some retailers are in expansion mode, however. They include athleisure brand Lululemon, which this month opened a 20,000 sq ft site in Chicago that features a meditation area and yoga studio. “In the better properties, there is very strong demand for space,” Mr Buono said.

."

Trechos retirados de "US retailers quicken exit from malls as online shopping bites"

2009 versus 2019

"In 2009, I wrote: “Companies can no longer hide behind a veneer of a shiny branding campaign, because customers are one Google search away from the truth.”
.
It’s more true today.
...
In 2009, I wrote: “Trust agents have established themselves as being non-sales-oriented, non-high-pressure marketers. Instead, they are digital natives using the Web to be genuine and to humanize their business.”
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I would change this a bit. Sales isn’t bad. Bad sales are bad. A trust agent sells you something they believe will help you win the game you’re trying to win.
...
In 2019, there’s something more. We are in an age of identity, where people want to be very specific about who they are, what matters to them, and they want to support only those companies that share their values. If you can buy the same kinds of products from multiple sources, why buy from a company you don’t respect? Or most importantly, who doesn’t see you?
...
In 2009, I wrote: “Gaining the trust of another requires you be competent and reliable. It also requires you to leave someone with a positive emotional impression, which is something the Web has the potential to do quickly and well.”
...
I think very few marketing departments held conversations about the trust equation (even though Maister and Green helped companies make millions on this detail alone). And I know that very few companies set about trying to humanize their brands to reach people.
...
In a 2017 study, Cone Communications found that 67% of people wanted to align with companies that shared their values, and that furthermore, most people wanted to align with companies who would move their values forward in some way.
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Identity matters to individuals more than ever before."

Trechos retirados de "10 Years After Trust Agents"

Outro regresso

Depois do regresso do vinil, da cassete, das livrarias, das ... eis o regresso dos catálogos em papel, "How to Use Catalogues in a Digital Age".

"For decades, retailers used catalogues — often hundreds of pages thick — to showcase their inventory and sell products via mail or telephone orders.
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But with the rise of e-commerce, catalogues fell out of favour.
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Marketers say they’ve started to see a rebound in the last couple years, mainly from online brands, which now fill the mailboxes of their millennial consumers. They see mailings as a low-cost alternative to advertising on search engines and social media, where costs have risen as more companies look for new customers online. Today’s iteration of catalogues are slimmer and less product-driven. Consumers are encouraged to purchase items online, often with a special discount code in the catalogue.
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“I think digital communications are starting to overwhelm people, and a well-designed piece of print advertisement can be an unexpected touchpoint,”
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Unlike the dense catalogues of the past, mailers today are shorter because there’s no longer a need to feature every single product a brand carries when the online shop is at a consumer’s fingertips.
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Many catalogues now look more like magazines, and some brands produce editorial content."

Segmentar, segmentar, segmentar

"Fashion retail is undergoing dramatic change – digital channels, fast fashion, and a surge of discount campaigns are all causing retailers discomfort.
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In order to succeed in this difficult market environment, brand manufacturers must deploy their resources in the most targeted way possible. The most important step is to invest in productive trade relationships. Only by securing the right partners in brick-and-mortar and online retail and by strengthening customer relationships with them will manufacturers be able to grow in tandem with successful retailers.
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So who are the right retail partners? Not every customer is the same. For example, the hip concept stores found in big cities differ significantly, in terms of sales structures and potential, from the traditional fashion boutiques of smaller towns. Hence, it doesn't pay off to invest the same amount in every customer relationship. In order to identify which partners are most strategically important, customer segmentation needs to be conducted. The only way for manufacturers to set the correct priorities is to understand their customers in detail, including all their strengths and weaknesses.
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In addition to raw figures, fashion manufacturers need to monitor qualitative aspects, such as influencer potential, location, competitive positioning, and collaboration, to determine the strategic importance of their retail customers. These rating criteria need to be used to assess both online and offline retailers. For brick-and-mortar stores, a good location in a shopping area is essential, while the equivalent in online retail is a top Google ranking or a large number of unique visits. The interplay between all these criteria determines the overall customer value. When evaluating retailers, it is important not to assess chain stores as single entities – the situation of individual locations has to be considered!"

Trechos retirados de "Segmentation in Fashion Wholesale: Using Resources Effectively"

"not trying to be "the everything store""

"Among the successful strategies these big brands used, which you can try when faced with a bigger competitor:
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Turning your weakness into strength, for example how Best Buy put the focus on in-person experience over online convenience.
Partnering with your bigger competitor (Kohl's reaction).
Focusing on people as much as products, like at Costco.
Attacking their strengths (as Walmart has tried, by basically declaring itself a tech company).
These aren't easy solutions of course. And they're not all applicable to all competitors.
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But if your business is suddenly up against Amazon, you do likely have advantages: nimbleness, customer relationships, and the intense knowledge of your products and customers that comes specifically from not trying to be "the everything store.""

Trecho retirado de "Amazon Was a Real Danger to Kohl's, Costco and Best Buy. Here's How They Survived and Thrived"

Considerar também "What the Grocery Stores Holding Their Own Against Amazon Are Doing Right" e "E-commerce is the 'future for a lot of markets,' Adidas CEO says"

"Anticiparse, anticiparse, anticiparse"

O amigo Rui Moreira mandou-me o documento "Informe de la moda online en España 2017".

Nele leio:

"Anticiparse, anticiparse, anticiparse
...
La tecnología no deja de plantear desafíos en los que la clave es anticiparse.
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¿He dicho anticiparse? Sí, tres veces, como si invocase un hechizo mágico. Anticiparse a los cambios sociales, culturales, económicos o de cualquier otro tipo es la forma en la que las empresas, en todos los sectores, logran sentar las bases de su competitividad futura, la manera en que logran perdurar en el tiempo.
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las empresas de moda deben anticiparse a las nuevas formas de consumir que está trayendo consigo el desarrollo de Internet.
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En los últimos tres años el peso del canal online se ha duplicado, como consecuencia de que el número de consumidores que compran alguna prenda por Internet cada año es hoy más del doble que en 2013."

O significado daquele "Anticiparse, anticiparse, anticiparse" revelou-se em toda a sua dimensão quando cheguei a esta página:

"España se encuentra claramente por detrás de otros países del entorno europeo en términos de cuota de mercado del comercio electrónico en el sector de la moda. Aspectos climáticos, culturales y empresariales influyen en esta realidad, en la que también resulta clave la menor tradición de venta por catálogo respecto a otros países. Entre los cinco mayores mercados europeos para la industria de la moda la delantera corresponde claramente a Alemania, un país que, antes de la popularización de Internet, ya contaba con una importante tradición en las ventas de moda a distancia.
En Reino Unido y Alemania, donde las ventas online tienen un peso mayor, la cuota ha seguido creciendo a ritmos de doble dígito en los últimos años, especial- mente en Reino Unido, donde la cuota de Internet en las ventas de moda ha subido 5,3 puntos porcentuales de 2013 a 2016, hasta el 23,9%"

Sendo os dados de 2016 procurei logo na internet se havia alguma versão mais recente:

As compras de moda estão a transferir-se do retalho físico para o retalho online, nuns países mais rapidamente que noutros. Como é que a sua empresa se está a preparar para esta transição? Vai esperar até quando?

Por exemplo:

Countering commoditization begins with ... (parte III)

Parte I e parte II.

O quadrante "Core" é o ponto de partida para muitos dos desafios em que acompanho as PMEs. 

"Core This quadrant, low on both value-adding dimensions, is a starting point where the offer lacks sufficient differentiation to avoid becoming a commodity. Customers do not perceive compelling differences between the firm and its rivals in their value propositions. What is offered is not sufficiently adapted to the specific requirements of individual customers or their segments, nor does it have an added ‘bundled’ value besides the core product. Under this scenario the firm is obliged to look beyond its core for the missing differentiation that comes with added value."

As hipóteses são:

"Targeted Extension This quadrant represents a strategy that aims to add value by extending its core offer to more closely meet the special and possibly unique needs of the market segments or even the individual accounts it serves.
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System Development Firms choosing to compete in this quadrant develop a package of products and services that offer the synergistic benefits of a ‘system’.
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Solutions Innovation What happens when the firm’s offer consists of a full set of bundled products and services that are specifically targeted at certain customer segments or individual accounts?"

A figura que se segue ilustra com o exemplo da SKF:

 Interessante como o quadrante das Total solutions = Solutions Innovation é um exemplo perfeito da máxima "Privilegiar os inputs sobre os outputs". Não vendem rolamentos, vendem os resultados que os clientes procuram. Os rolamentos foram um instrumento inicial para o arranque da conversa.