Marcas: Hara-Kiri

"Overproduction is a huge problem that the industry tries to hide as it chases after fake numbers and reports of constant growth.
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The industry talks about conspicuous consumption — buying for the sake of buying — as the reason behind the growth in the luxury segment. But brands are producing more product than there is demand for. I call it conspicuous production, producing for the sake of producing and artificially inflating the numbers.
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Supply meets demand is the basic rule of business and one the whole industry seems to ignore. Sales are the first indicators of overproduction. The goal should be to reach 100 per cent sell-through before discounts, though figures over 90 per cent are acceptable, as no one can predict the exact demand down to each SKU [stock-keeping unit]. What’s shocking is that most brands in big stores don’t even sell 20 per cent of their merchandise before discount, yet continue to report wholesale growth.
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Stores and brands are trying to hide the truth by opening outlet stores, which sell unsold merchandise and sometimes even similar collections that never went to the full-price retailers. Outlet stores then have the same problem: they end up with deadstock that they resell to other countries and the same scenario repeats itself. If nobody wanted something full-price, it doesn’t necessarily mean that anyone will want it half-price. Recent reports show that more than 30 per cent of merchandise produced by fashion brands will never be sold. The clothes end up in landfill. It affects consumer buying behaviour as well. Pieces bought on discount appear to be less valuable psychologically to the consumer, which makes it easier to throw them out.
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Luxury is like dating. If something is available and in front of you, it’s less desirable. Scarcity is what defines it. One of the ways to create scarcity is to reduce the supply curve. The more demand there is, the more desire it creates. Desire is the key value in luxury business.
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The parallel market is one of the dirtiest secrets of the fashion industry. [Moi ici: Outro tema de que me falaram na conversa na origem de "Em busca de um novo oásis"] More and more luxury stores have become a beautiful façade to cover the real business going on behind the scenes. In addition to selling a small part of the merchandise directly to the final consumer, they also play an intermediary role in reselling the biggest part of their order to horrible stores, often in remote locations all around the world, which cannot get brands through the official channels.
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Brands are perfectly aware of the parallel market, and the stores involved in it, but are closing their eyes in order to further report growing sales numbers. Officially those brands are sold only in the best stores in the world, and claim a limited and exclusive distribution, but in reality their merchandise ends up in horrible places. There is a certain obsession with reporting the growth for fashion brands no matter what the true cost.
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The values and goals have mutated so much that things that simply make sense start to look abnormal or disruptive. Historically, brands produced clothes to sell to a final consumer. Today brands produce runway collections to sell a perfume or a wallet in a duty-free store. They stuff stores with unwanted merchandise to report artificial growth. They keep overproducing while talking about sustainability. They claim exclusive distribution while paralleling their own merchandise. They are slowly killing their brands in the long term to have a quick profit today."

Interessante, relacionar a legenda das figuras do artigo de donde retirei estes trechos "Vetements: the gospel of Guram Gvasalia":

"they chose to shoot their designs on local people and families living in the area"

Com este outro artigo "QUORA: IS VICTORIA'S SECRET FAILING? IT'S NOT LOOKING GOOD":

"The first clear indication that it’s the perfection in Victoria’s Secret images that is proving to be a turnoff was the emergence of competitor Aerie, whose marketing plays up its “unretouched, real women” angle. Ever since it launched its no-airbrushing policy in 2014, Aerie’s sales have taken off.
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As a policy, Curvy Kate does not use any professional models, sourcing the eclectic mix of women it features from social media.
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Also going the real-women, no-Photoshopping route and winning reams of positive reviews is LONELY LINGERIE, which a few months ago placed a 56-year-old woman at the centre of their campaign."

Autenticidade versus "fake"