"Mendoza knows the soils and microclimates of his native region as well as anyone.Uma aspiração ao contrário da verificada recentemente por cá na zona do Alvarinho (recordar a minha receita para os produtores genuínos).
These young men and women want the right to print the name and location of their vineyards on their wine bottles. In that, they’re part of a wider movement. In November 2015, a group of 15 wine professionals wrote what they called the Club Matador manifesto, signed by Spanish producers, merchants, sommeliers and wine journalists
The manifesto was aimed at the broader Spanish wine industry, but it had particular implications for Rioja, a region in which it is illegal to use the names of vineyards and villages on labels. [Moi ici: Por que razão terá aparecido esta proibição? Quem terá sido beneficiado com esta proibição e porquê?] (Imagine if all the domaines of Burgundy sold their wines only as Bourgogne rouge or blanc .) Instead, the majority of wines in the appellation are simply classified as joven (young), crianza (matured), reserva (aged) or gran reserva (extra aged), according to the amount of time they do—or don’t—spend in oak barrels.
“Rioja’s soils are very complicated, but we’re not allowed to talk about them. It’s crazy. There are four different soil types in San Vicente alone, but most Rioja is sold like Coca-Cola.” All of his wines are labeled as Rioja, with no mention of cask aging. His focus is on the quality of his grapes, which makes him part of the global trend toward wines based on the unique properties of their vineyards of origin. Setting the desire for self-expression aside, there is an economic reason for this, as acknowledged by the manifesto: “ We believe that by raising the bar…we will be capable of better explaining the reality of our country’s wines, which would help sell our wines more effectively.”
Recordar a diferença entre o vinho português e o espanhol (aqui também)
Trechos retirados de "Grapes of Wrath: Rioja Rebels Changing the Way Wine is Sold"