No WSJ do passado dia 15 de Fevereiro encontrei, "Chefs Say No Thanks To Michelin Star Rating".
O artigo aborda o impacte de ganhar uma estrela Michelin e porque alguns chefs optam por recusar esse reconhecimento.
Ganham pressão e expectativas elevadas:
"The Tuscan eatery had been awarded the star in 2019 for its traditional Italian food with a modern flair, such as potatoes with squid sauce, chanterelles and spicy parsley. Then came new clientele with heightened expectations. The owners, who desired a more relaxed environment, had come to think of the award as a burden."
Aumenta o desafio financeiro:
"Although the Michelin Guide says that only factors such as quality of cooking and mastery of technique are considered, some restaurant owners including Olesen feel they would need to maintain perfection at every level in exchange for a star, down to the ply of the toilet paper in the bathrooms.
This can make it hard to run a restaurant, owners said. A star can lead to an uptick in business and sales, but a slump almost inevitably follows, according to a 2021 report on the impact of the Michelin star on restaurants in New York City published in the Strategic Management Journal, a research publication. For some places, this can be a fatal blow, as they struggle to sustain new costs such as higher-quality ingredients, rising rents from landlords who re-evaluate their property and staff who demand pay commensurate with their perceived newfound value, the report said."
Aparece a censura criativa e o medo de falhar:
"In some respects [a star] can be a little stifling," said Scott Nishiyama, the chef and owner at Ethel's Fancy in Palo Alto, Calif., who trained under Michelin-star chefs before opening his own restaurant. He said the possibility of a Michelin inspector walking through the door at any moment could be unnerving: "You don't have that necessary freedom or joy to make discoveries and to make mistakes because you're simply worried about losing that star, or trying to achieve that first star.""
A reavaliação dos objectivos de vida:
"Such recognition represents the highest achievement a young chef can aspire to," said Stefano Terigi, a chef at Giglio. "We didn't have time to figure out if it was truly our path; we didn't seek it out."
...
"If I wanted to get myself to that caliber [of a star], it would require a lot more time and energy on my end to put that together," said Justin Kent, a U.S. chef who trained with the esteemed David Toutain and Alain Passard before opening his own Paris eatery, Milagro, which was featured without a star in France's 2024 guide.
...
"I'm very happy with my life the way it is," he said. Kent regularly brings his tiny dog Tofu to work, delighting the customers."
E o extraordinário impacte no imobiliário e no custo do pessoal. Os proprietários reavaliam o valor do espaço e aumentam as rendas e os trabalhadores esperam/exigem aumentos dado o valor da estrela.
Assim:
"Last fall, the restaurant Giglio in Lucca, Italy, made a surprising request: to have its Michelin star removed from the 2025 guide."
Recordar a lição das salamandras de Estarreja, espelhada nas dificuldades das Orsted e das Vale da Rosa. O crescimento rápido pode gerar desafios financeiros e operacionais. As empresas precisam avaliar se estão preparadas para lidar com custos crescentes e expectativas mais elevadas antes de procurarem reconhecimento no mercado.
Para algumas PME, um grande reconhecimento pode aumentar a procura, mas também gerar pressões que dificultam a operação eficiente. Ter um crescimento controlado pode ser mais vantajoso do que um sucesso instantâneo.
Tal como alguns chefes preferem manter um restaurante com ambiente descontraído, os empresários devem refletir sobre o impacte do crescimento na sua qualidade de vida e bem-estar. Há muitos anos aprendi o que era um "life style business". Um tipo de empresa criada principalmente para sustentar o estilo de vida desejado pelo proprietário, em vez de focar exclusivamente o crescimento máximo ou a maximização dos lucros.
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