"As one might expect, the chief executive officer of Prada, Patrizio Bertelli has a somewhat snobby take on U.S. department stores: They’re too low-rent, what with never-ending discounts. “They seem to be on a permanent end-of-season sales mode,” Bertelli said during a conference call late on Friday.O mesmo se aplica às marcas que deixam de apostar nos centros de produção na Ásia. Claro, para poder fugir deste atractor que destrói valor há que saber co-criá-lo, é um novo modelo de negócio.
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Even for Prada, a brand that would rather die than be caught in an “everything-must-go” situation, this is a growing problem. “They are not interested in promoting products and brands while in display, because they are constantly engaged in markdowns,” Bertelli said. Translation: “If you’re the type of consumer who buys $450 sneakers, you’re focused on the shoes, not the price.”
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“It would be a pretty easy thing for us to sell €100 million [$136.6 million] or €200 million more through wholesale accounts, but it’s very detrimental in terms of brand image,” Bertelli said. “We’d rather stay away from that.”
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But as customers insist on a deal, Wall Street—and now, perhaps, suppliers—fear a race to the bottom. While department stores might need sales to lure shoppers, at least some luxury labels don’t. As Prada slowly exited big-box retailers in the past five years, its profit margin climbed from 6 percent to 19 percent. (That’s net profit, not operating or EBITDA or any other rose-tinted metric.)
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The more blue-blood brands ditch big boxes and go it alone with spiffy Web stores and slick boutiques, such stores as Macy’s evolve toward being glorified outlet barns."
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Trechos retirados de "Prada CEO Explains Why Department Stores Can't Have Nice Things"
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