Curiosidade do dia

A revista do FT do passado dia 10 de Janeiro publicou "Madeira, the wine that lasts a lifetime":

"But a long-awaited tasting that finally took place last October, after many a stop and start, proved an exception and well worth the wait. (It was first proposed in 2019 but delayed by lockdowns.) This particular horizontal tasting was of wines that were 150 or 155 years old. And, of the 18 wines in question, only one was in anything other than peak condition. This was nothing short of miraculous.

Wine geeks will already have guessed what the wines were: madeira, the longest-lived wine of all, and one that, so usefully, remains hale and hearty in an opened bottle for as long as it takes you to finish enjoying it. 

...

The upshot of all this is that madeira of any quality or style is, justifiably, expensive - especially relative to the port and sherry produced in infinitely greater quantity. Blandy's is the dominant producer, owned by the family who have staked their fortune on many other aspects of the island's economy. Chris Blandy has taken the wine company in hand and repackaged its 10 Year old classic bottlings so that they now look extremely handsome, and have a recommended retail price of £39.99 (although they can be found for less)."

O Madeira foi durante décadas subvalorizado porque o mercado não tinha linguagem nem categorias para o apreciar. Estratégias de diferenciação exigem, muitas vezes, educar o mercado — ou esperar que ele mude. 

Lembro-me de o Madeira ser misturado com sal para poder ser vendido como molho para a França.

O Madeira é apresentada como um caso único no universo do vinho. Graças à sua acidez elevada, à fortificação e à exposição histórica ao calor e à oxidação, é o vinho mais longevo do mundo, capaz de sobreviver por séculos em garrafa e até semanas ou meses aberto, sem se deteriorar. Isto não é marketing moderno; é um subproduto acidental da história, da geografia e de choques sucessivos (doenças da vinha, colapsos comerciais, isolamento).

O paradoxo central é que, apesar desta singularidade extrema, a produção de Madeira é hoje mínima, com poucos produtores, poucas vinhas e escassez crónica de castas tradicionais. O mercado nunca recompensou plenamente esta capacidade extraordinária de durar — e só recentemente passou a reconhecê-la como um valor em si.

Será uma campanha de marketing? A revista Spectator de 3 de Janeiro passado inclui uma declaração de amor ao Madeira de onde retiro:

"One of the beauties of Madeira is that its fortification means it can last much longer than almost any rival, with vintages from the 18th century still drinkable, if you can find them. While the Chancellor continues to find new ways to hammer the hospitality industry, Madeira allows one to reflect on a time when government promoted expansion and the growth of British industry. When in 1662 the restored Charles II married Catherine of Braganza, the sister of the King of Portugal, the marriage solidified the alliance between two great nations, and led to an increase in the production and trade of Madeira. This was consolidated by the Methuen treaty in the early 18th century, which, by lowering import duties on Portuguese wines, made port and Madeira wines much cheaper than their French counterparts. By 1717, Portuguese wines accounted for two-thirds of all wines imported into England. By 1780 it is estimated that up to 70 British houses had been established to trade and export wine on the island of Madeira. This fine, historic drink deserves more acclaim and appreciation, and we are lucky to have places like the Blue Stoops prepared to celebrate it. So go out, try it, and savour it in all its nutty, sweet, dark, complex glory. There really is nothing to fear."